Livingstone

The quieter side of one of the world's great waterfalls

Livingstone was built, quite literally, around Victoria Falls: named for the explorer who "discovered" it for Europe in 1855, sitting on the Zambian bank of the Zambezi directly opposite Zimbabwe's more built-up Victoria Falls town. What the town gives you that the other side doesn't is proximity: Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park puts you close enough to the drop to feel the spray on your face year-round and, from mid-August to mid-January, to swim to the literal edge of the falls at Devil's Pool. The town itself is small, unhurried and easy to navigate in a few days, a genuine backpacker and safari hub rather than a resort strip.

What changed in the last decade is less dramatic than Porto or Tbilisi's tourism booms: Livingstone has grown steadily rather than exploded, and it still feels like a town that happens to have a world wonder next door rather than a destination built entirely around one. Riverfront five-star resorts sit a few kilometres from $15 hostel dorms, and both crowds end up at the same bars and rafting put-ins by evening.

Three areas, one short taxi ride apart

Livingstone spreads along a single main artery, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, from the town centre down to the falls themselves, roughly 10 kilometres. Where you base yourself comes down to whether you want to walk to the falls or walk to a restaurant.

The Riverfront & Mosi-oa-Tunya Park Falls-adjacent · Resort hotels · Quiet

The stretch of Zambezi bank inside and beside Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park holds Livingstone's riverfront resorts, walking distance or a short shuttle from the falls entrance and the Devil's Pool boat departure point. It's the most scenic, most expensive base, with wildlife (zebra, giraffe and antelope roam the resort grounds) as a genuine feature rather than marketing.

Livingstone Town Centre Best base for budget · Restaurants · The market

The compact grid around Mosi-oa-Tunya Road and the old colonial-era buildings holds the museum, the curio market, most restaurants, and both of the town's long-running backpacker hostels. It's a 10 to 15-minute drive from the falls, cheap by taxi or hostel shuttle, and the practical base for anyone not paying resort prices.

Upstream Zambezi Lodges Secluded · 15-20 min from town · Higher-end

A handful of lodges, including Tongabezi under the Green Safaris brand, sit upstream of the falls on quieter stretches of river, trading walkability to the falls for privacy and a slower riverside pace. Good for a honeymoon leg or a second Livingstone visit rather than a first efficient one.

From five-star falls views to Africa's classic backpacker scene

Livingstone's hostel scene is one of the best-known in Southern Africa, two properties with genuine institutional reputations, and the riverfront resorts at the top end are priced and positioned to match anywhere on the continent. These picks cover the range.

At the top, The Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara sits inside Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park itself, a 15-minute walk from the falls entrance through resident zebra and giraffe, with an infinity-edge feel over the Zambezi and its own private falls access; from roughly $600 a night. A short drive away, the Avani Victoria Falls Resort (formerly Zambezi Sun, from around $250) is the more family-oriented riverfront option, with a large pool and the same easy falls access at a lower price point.

In the upstream, quieter bracket, The David Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa (from around $200) sits on the Zambezi about 10 minutes from town with riverfront dining and a spa, while Tongabezi, now operated under the Green Safaris brand roughly 20 minutes upstream, is the most exclusive and secluded option, individually designed houses on the riverbank rather than a standard hotel layout.

At the budget end, Jollyboys Backpackers (dorms from about $15, established 1995) and Fawlty Towers (dorms from about $20, established 1996) are the two hostels that built Livingstone's backpacker reputation, both with pools, free or low-cost airport pickup, and free daily shuttles to the falls, close to the museum, market and banks in the town centre.

Zambian classics, Indian favourites, and a lot of grilled Zambezi fish

Livingstone's dining scene is small but genuinely varied for a town its size, running from market kantembas serving nshima for a couple of dollars to riverfront fine dining at the resorts. Most restaurants close by around 10pm, so plan dinner accordingly.

Cafe Zambezi $8-15 · Traditional Zambian

Livingstone's most-recommended spot for traditional Zambian cooking, with game meats, goat and grilled Mosi-oa-Tunya catfish alongside nshima and the local relishes. The place to try the food Zambians actually eat, rather than a hotel-buffet version of it.

The Golden Leaf $8-15 · Indian & Asian

Livingstone's standout for Indian and broader Asian cooking, consistently the top-rated kitchen in town for anyone wanting a break from grills and nshima.

Olga's - The Italian Corner $8-15 · Italian, wood-fired pizza

A long-running Italian spot with wood-fired pizza and pasta, run as a training restaurant supporting a local vocational school, popular with both visitors and Livingstone's expat community.

Kubu Cafe $3-8 · Coffee & light meals

The best coffee and tea selection in town in a relaxed garden setting, good for breakfast before an early falls visit or a slow afternoon between activities.

The falls, the water, and the bridge between two countries

Everything in Livingstone orbits the Zambezi in one way or another. A few activities need booking a day or more ahead in peak season, especially Devil's Pool, and this chapter walks through the town roughly the way a good two or three days would.

Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park and the falls

Entry to the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, inside Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, costs around $20 for international visitors, payable in USD or Kwacha at the main gate. The path leads across the Knife-Edge Bridge, permanently drenched in spray with the gorge dropping away on both sides, the single best free vantage point on the Zambian side. Bring a dry bag or poncho; you will get soaked. The park itself, small but genuine, also holds white rhino under guard, giraffe, zebra and antelope, worth an hour's walk or short game drive beyond the falls viewpoints.

Devil's Pool and Livingstone Island

The activity Livingstone is uniquely known for: a natural rock pool right at the lip of the falls, safe to swim in roughly mid-August to mid-January when the Zambezi's flow drops low enough. Trips run via boat to Livingstone Island with Green Safaris (the operator formerly known as Tongabezi Safaris), several departures daily in season, priced from around $120 for a shorter morning "breezer" up to $190-210 for a full lunch or high tea package. Book at least a day ahead in peak season (Aug-Oct); outside the swimmable window the same boats run scenic Livingstone Island tours without the pool.

Adventure on the water and the bridge

Full-day white water rafting on the Zambezi's Grade 3-5 rapids below the falls runs from about $140 per person with Livingstone-based operators including Livingstone's Adventure and Bundu Adventures; half-day trips run $110-140. Swimming under the falls, a calmer alternative in the pools below the main drop, costs around $70. On the Victoria Falls Bridge itself, spanning the gorge between Zambia and Zimbabwe, the bungee jump (111 metres, booked through Shearwater on the Zimbabwe side but reachable from Livingstone with a transfer) costs $194 per person, with a bridge swing and zipline as lower-intensity alternatives.

Cruises, the museum and the market

A Zambezi sunset cruise is the classic lower-key evening, from about $75 with operators like the African Queen; a full sunset river safari with drinks and snacks runs closer to $110. The Livingstone Museum in town, Zambia's oldest and largest, covers the country's history, ethnography and a David Livingstone collection, a good rainy-hour or midday-heat option. The Mukuni curio market near the falls and the town's central craft stalls are the places to buy carvings, textiles and jewellery directly from makers; bargaining is expected and good-natured.

One, two or three days, planned around the falls

Two to three full days covers Livingstone properly, including one big-ticket activity; even one well-planned day delivers the falls and a taste of the river.

Small enough to walk, spread out enough to want a taxi after dark

Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport (LVI) sits about 7 km from town, with direct flights from Johannesburg, Lusaka (55 minutes with Proflight Zambia or Zambia Airways) and a growing number of regional routes. A taxi into town runs $10-15, and most hostels and hotels offer free or low-cost pickup if you arrange it in advance. From Lusaka by road, the drive is 6 to 7 hours on a paved but occasionally rough route.

Within Livingstone, taxis are the practical way to move between the town centre, the riverfront hotels and the falls, roughly $5-10 for most in-town trips and a bit more out to the park. Many hostels and hotels run free shuttles to the falls once or twice daily; ask at check-in. Walking works fine inside the town centre grid during the day, but the road out to the falls and riverfront has no real pedestrian infrastructure, so use a taxi after dark.

Cheap to sleep, activities are where the budget goes

Livingstone's accommodation and food are inexpensive by international standards; the main cost driver is activities, which are priced in USD and add up fast if you do more than one or two big-ticket items.

One of Zambia's safest towns, with a short list to know

Livingstone is low-risk for visitors, consistent with Zambia's overall Level 1 (exercise normal precautions) rating from the US State Department. Violent crime against tourists is rare, and the town's economy depends heavily on repeat and word-of-mouth tourism, which keeps most operators and guides reliable. Livingstone is also a reasonable choice for solo travellers: the hostel scene makes it easy to pair up for activities, and hotel and hostel staff are used to independent guests of every kind.

The practical things that catch visitors: opportunistic theft around the market and busy tourist areas, so keep valuables secured and bags closed; informal taxi and currency exchange overcharging, best avoided by agreeing fares before getting in and using bank ATMs rather than street changers; and wildlife awareness, since Mosi-oa-Tunya park and some riverfront hotel grounds have genuinely unfenced animals, so follow staff guidance, especially after dark. Emergency numbers are the national ones: police 999, ambulance 991, fire 993.

Two countries and a national park, all within reach

Livingstone's position at the meeting point of Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana makes it an unusually good base for cross-border day trips, all doable on the KAZA univisa or a separate day pass.

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe side Walk across the bridge · KAZA univisa covers it

The wider, more panoramic view of the falls, roughly two-thirds of the total frontage, is on the Zimbabwe side, a walk across the Victoria Falls Bridge from Livingstone. The KAZA univisa ($50) covers both countries on multiple entries, so most visitors treat it as a half-day add-on rather than a separate trip.

Chobe National Park, Botswana Day pass, ~1.5-2h transfer · River safari

A day trip across the Kazungula border brings you to Chobe National Park, home to one of Africa's largest elephant concentrations along the Chobe River. Full-day tours from Livingstone typically include the border crossing, a river cruise and a game drive, back by evening.

South Luangwa or Lower Zambezi Fly-in · Overnight recommended

Not a true day trip given the flight times via Lusaka, but worth planning as a short add-on: both national parks are reachable by domestic flight for travelers who want to pair Livingstone's falls-and-adventure focus with a proper walking or river safari. Full detail on both parks is in the Zambia country guide.