Yemen
One of the oldest civilizations on earth. Dragon blood trees on an island that evolution forgot. Tower houses that have stood for a thousand years. A war that has lasted a decade. This guide is honest about all of it.
The Current Situation
Yemen in 2026 remains one of the most dangerous places on earth for foreign nationals. There is no functioning national government with authority over the whole country. Multiple armed factions control different territories. Air strikes occur with limited warning. Kidnapping of foreigners has been documented, including of aid workers operating under humanitarian mandates. The landmine and unexploded ordnance situation is severe and largely unmapped.
The exception to this assessment is Socotra Island, which sits in the Arabian Sea about 240 kilometers east of the Horn of Africa. Socotra has been largely removed from the direct conflict — it has been under UAE-backed administration and has periodically received tourists, primarily via charter flights from Abu Dhabi and through specialized operators. Whether Socotra travel is advisable depends on current political conditions that change. Check specifically and recently before making any booking.
This guide exists for several reasons. Humanitarian workers, journalists, diplomatic staff, and researchers do travel to Yemen — they go under different frameworks than tourists and with different support structures. This guide provides context for them. This guide also documents what Yemen was, what it contains, and what has been lost or damaged — because that record matters. And it provides planning information for when a lasting peace eventually makes tourism possible again.
Yemen deserves to be known. What the war has done to it — and what remains despite the war — is documented here honestly.
Yemen at a Glance
A History Worth Knowing
The Romans called it Arabia Felix — Happy Arabia — to distinguish it from Arabia Deserta to the north. The name was not casual flattery. Yemen's southwestern highlands receive monsoon rains that the rest of the Arabian Peninsula does not, producing an agricultural surplus that sustained complex civilization for at least 3,000 years before the Islamic era. The ancient kingdoms of Saba (Sheba), Himyar, Qataban, and Ma'in — whose names appear in the Bible, in Herodotus, in Roman trading records, in the Quran — all existed in what is now Yemen. The spice trade and the frankincense and myrrh routes that supplied the ancient world's temples and embalming practices ran through this land.
The Queen of Sheba story — whatever its historical basis — is Yemeni. The city of Ma'rib, capital of the Sabaean Kingdom, had a dam that was one of the ancient world's greatest engineering achievements. The Great Dam of Ma'rib, built around 700 BCE, irrigated 25,000 acres of desert and supported a city of 20,000 people. When it finally collapsed around 570 CE — after centuries of repairs — the event was significant enough to be recorded in the Quran as a sign of divine judgment. The ruins are still there, in territory that saw fierce fighting.
Islam arrived in Yemen in the Prophet Muhammad's lifetime — the Prophet sent Ali ibn Abi Talib to convert the Yemenis around 630 CE and reportedly received word that the entire region had accepted Islam within a year. The Zaidi Shia tradition, which took root in the northern highlands in the 9th century, is the basis of the Houthi movement's religious identity today — though the political movement is far more recent. The Ismaili tradition also has deep Yemeni roots, centered on the Haraz mountains west of Sana'a.
Sana'a itself is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth. Local tradition holds that it was founded by Shem, son of Noah. The historical record puts it as a significant urban center by the 1st century CE. The old city, with its distinctive tower houses — multi-story mud-brick structures whose upper floors are decorated with alabaster fanlights and geometric stucco — grew largely to its current form between the 10th and 17th centuries. UNESCO inscribed it in 1988. Air strikes hit the historic core in 2015, damaging structures that survived a millennium.
The modern political history is complicated and contested. North Yemen gained independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1918 and was ruled by Zaidi imams until a 1962 republican revolution. South Yemen was a British protectorate that became independent in 1967 and briefly had a Marxist government — the only officially Marxist state in the Arab world. The two Yemens unified in 1990. Ali Abdullah Saleh governed for over three decades, survived the Arab Spring uprisings of 2011-2012 only to be removed under a UN-brokered transition, and was ultimately killed in 2017 by Houthi forces he had allied with. The war that began in 2014-2015, when Houthi forces swept south from their highland strongholds and took Sana'a, is still ongoing.
Sabaean Kingdom at its height. Ancient frankincense trade routes established. Arabia Felix earns its name.
Ali ibn Abi Talib sent by the Prophet Muhammad. Yemen becomes Islamic within a year.
Zaidi Shia tradition takes root in the northern highlands. The religious-political tradition that underpins the Houthi movement today.
North Yemen independent. South Yemen remains under British control until 1967.
North and South Yemen merge. Ali Abdullah Saleh governs for over 20 years.
Houthi forces take Sana'a. Saudi-led coalition intervenes. Yemen's civil war becomes an international proxy conflict.
No lasting peace agreement. Fragmented territorial control. Humanitarian crisis among the world's worst.
Yemen's Heritage
Yemen contains four UNESCO World Heritage Sites, all of them among the most extraordinary in the Arabian world. All are in various states of damage or inaccessibility. Documenting them is a form of record-keeping — these places exist and matter, regardless of whether visiting them is currently possible.
Old City of Sana'a
Sana'a's old city is one of the most visually distinctive urban environments on earth. The tower houses — some standing six or seven stories high, their facades decorated with geometric patterns in fired brick, their upper rooms lit by alabaster fanlights — are unlike domestic architecture anywhere else in the world. The city has been inhabited continuously for at least 2,500 years. The covered suq, the great mosque, the gardens with their ancient irrigation channels — all within a UNESCO-listed area that air strikes hit in 2015, destroying parts of the historic core including the Al-Qasimi Palace. ACSAD (Arab Centre for the Studies of Arid Zones and Dry Lands) and other heritage organizations have been documenting the damage. What stands is extraordinary. What has been lost cannot be returned.
Old Walled City of Shibam
The "Manhattan of the desert." Shibam, in the Hadhramaut valley, is a city of 500 mud-brick tower houses built between the 16th and 19th centuries, rising 5 to 11 stories high from the desert floor, the entire complex surrounded by a fortified wall. It is one of the earliest examples of urban planning based on vertical construction. UNESCO inscribed it in 1982. The structures require constant maintenance — the mud bricks erode and must be replastered regularly. During conflict, maintenance stops. The damage from neglect compounds what direct conflict has caused. The city was on UNESCO's list of World Heritage in Danger before the war. The situation since 2015 is worse.
Socotra Archipelago
Socotra has its own UNESCO listing for its extraordinary endemic biodiversity. The island's long isolation from the mainland — it separated from the African and Arabian continental masses about 6 million years ago — produced a flora that is unlike anywhere else on earth. 37% of Socotra's plant species exist nowhere else. The dragon blood tree (Dracaena cinnabari), its umbrella canopy upturned toward the sky, is the island's symbol. The bottle tree, the giant succulent plants of the Diksam plateau, the white sand beaches of Qalansiya — all in a landscape that looks designed by someone who had never seen the rest of the planet's plants and started over. Whether Socotra is currently accessible for tourism requires current verification — see the dedicated section below.
Hadhramaut Valley & Old Walled Town of Shibam
The Hadhramaut is a vast canyon valley in southern Yemen, its walls rising 150 meters from the valley floor, with settlements and gardens below. The Hadhramis — the people of this valley — have historically been extraordinary travelers and traders, with diaspora communities across Southeast Asia, East Africa, and the Gulf. The valley contains dozens of historic towns beyond Shibam, including Say'un with its enormous white-plastered sultan's palace. The region has seen fighting and significant displacement.
Ma'rib & the Sabaean Kingdom
Ma'rib, east of Sana'a in the Marib Governorate, was the capital of the ancient Sabaean Kingdom. The ruins include the Great Dam, the Temple of Awwam (the "Arsh Bilqis" — Throne of Bilqis, believed to be associated with the Queen of Sheba), and the Temple of the Moon God. Ma'rib has been at the center of some of the war's most intense fighting — the Houthi siege of Ma'rib city involved months of combat for control of the surrounding governorate. The ancient ruins are in a region that has seen sustained conflict.
Haraz Mountains
The Haraz range west of Sana'a, rising to over 3,000 meters, contains some of the most dramatic terraced agriculture in the world and some of Yemen's most intact pre-Islamic and Islamic heritage. The village of Al-Hajjarah, perched on a cliff edge, is among the most dramatically situated villages in Arabia. Coffee cultivation in the Haraz — Yemen is the birthplace of coffee as a beverage — continues despite the conflict. Yemeni coffee, particularly from the Haraz and Bani Matar regions, remains some of the most prized in the specialty coffee world.
Socotra Island
Socotra is a case apart from the mainland. The island archipelago, about 240 kilometers east of the Horn of Africa, was administered as part of Aden Governorate and came under the de facto control of UAE-backed forces during the war. Since 2018, charter flights from Abu Dhabi's Al-Bateen airport have periodically operated for tourists, making Socotra technically accessible at various points despite the mainland conflict.
The situation is not simple. Socotra's political status remains contested — the internationally recognized government and the UAE-backed Southern Transitional Council both claim authority. Military presence exists. The security environment changes. Whether tourist access is permitted in any given period depends on the current political arrangement between the UAE, the STC, and the Internationally Recognized Government.
This section describes what Socotra is. Whether you can currently visit requires current verification from a specialized operator.
Dragon Blood Trees
Dracaena cinnabari, the dragon blood tree, grows only on Socotra and a few other islands in the Socotra Archipelago. Its upturned umbrella canopy evolved to catch moisture from fog and channel it toward the roots. When cut, the tree bleeds dark red resin — dragon's blood — used in traditional medicine and as a dye for centuries. The Diksam plateau in central Socotra has the densest concentration: ancient trees on a limestone karst landscape, fog rolling in from the sea, no other vegetation for kilometers. It is among the most otherworldly landscapes on the planet.
Beaches & Coastline
Socotra's beaches — Qalansiya lagoon, Shuab bay (accessible only by boat), Aomak beach on the south coast — are among the least visited significant beaches in the world. The turquoise water, the white sand, the complete absence of tourist infrastructure beyond what local operators provide — these are things that will not remain undiscovered indefinitely. The southwest monsoon (June to September) makes the island inaccessible by sea and limits air access. The best visiting window is October to May.
Endemic Wildlife
Beyond the plants, Socotra has extraordinary endemic wildlife. The Socotra cormorant, the Socotra sunbird, the Socotra starling — most of the island's bird species exist nowhere else. Marine life in the surrounding waters, at the intersection of the Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean currents, is exceptionally diverse. The island has been called "the Galapagos of the Indian Ocean," a comparison that is more accurate than most such comparisons.
Socotri Language
The Socotri people speak Socotri, a South Semitic language unrelated to Arabic that has no traditional written form and is spoken by approximately 70,000 people. The language is classified as endangered. It preserves grammatical features and vocabulary that provide linguists with insight into how ancient South Arabian languages functioned. The oral literature — poetry, history, traditional knowledge about plants and marine navigation — exists only in this spoken form and is actively documented by linguists at SOAS and other institutions.
Working in Yemen
Thousands of humanitarian workers, journalists, diplomats, and researchers operate in Yemen despite the conflict. This section is for them. It is not a guide to "going to Yemen anyway for adventure" — that framing is dangerous for the person attempting it and for Yemenis who would be obligated to assist or protect them. It is a framework for people with institutional mandates, security infrastructure, and legitimate reasons to be there.
Institutional Support is Non-Negotiable
Nobody goes to Yemen responsibly without an established organization's backing: UN agencies (OCHA, WFP, UNHCR, UNICEF), major INGOs (MSF, IRC, CARE, Oxfam), recognized news organizations, or diplomatic missions. These organizations provide security protocols, local contacts, evacuation procedures, and negotiated access with armed parties. Freelancers without this support should not attempt to enter Yemen regardless of experience.
Security Training
HEAT (Hostile Environment and First Aid Training) is mandatory for any professional operating in Yemen. INSO (International NGO Safety Organisation) provides regular Yemen-specific security briefings for registered organizations. UNDSS (UN Department of Safety and Security) provides clearances and incident reporting. Engage with all of these before deployment.
Access Points
Aden's Aden International Airport has periodically operated commercial flights, primarily to Amman (Royal Jordanian) and to Djibouti. Seiyun Airport in the Hadhramaut serves that region. Sana'a International Airport has operated under various arrangements. Access points change with the conflict. Verify current operational status with your organization before planning travel.
Kidnapping Risk
Foreign nationals have been kidnapped in Yemen, including humanitarian workers. Tribal kidnapping (historically used as a form of political pressure rather than for ransom, but increasingly for ransom) and al-Qaeda in the Arabian Peninsula (AQAP) kidnapping for ransom are both documented risks. Movement outside secured areas requires vetted local escorts and real-time security intelligence.
Landmines & UXO
Yemen has one of the most severe landmine and unexploded ordnance contamination situations in the world. The Yemeni Executive Mine Action Center (YEMAC) has documented contamination across most conflict-affected governorates. NEVER move off known safe routes. NEVER approach unfamiliar objects. Movement in rural or recently-contested areas requires mine-aware local guidance.
Communications
Satellite phones (Thuraya and Iridium) are essential outside Aden and other functioning urban centers. The mobile network is fragmented along conflict lines — Sabafon and Yemen Mobile have different coverage in different-controlled areas. VHF radio for convoy operations. Establish regular check-in schedules with your security focal point before any movement.
Yemeni Culture
Yemeni culture is among the most layered in the Arab world — shaped by an ancient civilizational history, mountainous geography that preserved regional distinctiveness, a tribal social structure that predates Islam, a deeply rooted Islamic tradition in multiple strands, and a particular pride in being different from the Gulf states that surround it. Yemenis, pre-war travelers consistently reported, were among the most hospitable people in the Middle East, in a region where hospitality standards are already high.
The tribal structure — primarily the Hashid and Bakil confederations in the north, with distinct confederations in the south and Hadhramaut — shapes social and political life in ways that no government has ever fully superseded. Tribal law (urf), which regulates hospitality, conflict resolution, and protection of guests, coexists with Islamic law and formal government law. A foreigner under tribal protection in a functioning tribal area has historically been exceptionally safe — the obligation of protection (called jiwar) is taken seriously enough to override political conflicts.
Yemen & Coffee
Coffee as a beverage was developed in Yemen, specifically in the Sufi monasteries of the mountains where monks used it to stay awake during night prayers. The port of Mocha (Al-Mukha) on the Red Sea gave its name to the coffee that 16th-century Ottoman and European traders shipped to the world. Yemeni coffee varieties — from the Haraz, Bani Matar, and Rayma regions — are now among the most sought-after in specialty coffee. Qishr, a Yemeni coffee drink made from coffee husks and ginger, is the traditional home drink. The war has disrupted production but not ended it.
Qat Culture
Qat (Catha edulis) — a mild stimulant leaf chewed across East Africa and the Arabian Peninsula — is central to Yemeni social life. The afternoon qat chew, when men (and increasingly women, separately) gather to chew for two to four hours in a mafraj (a dedicated chewing room at the top of a tower house), is the primary social institution of Yemeni life. Business is conducted, disputes resolved, poetry recited, and politics argued during the qat chew. The crop uses a disproportionate share of Yemen's scarce water. It is also the main cash crop for millions of farming families. The economics and culture of qat cannot be disentangled.
Poetry Tradition
Yemen has one of the richest oral poetry traditions in the Arab world. The humayni style, associated with Sana'a, and the balah and zāmil styles of the tribal highlands are living traditions performed at weddings, tribal gatherings, and political events. The poet Ibrahim al-Hadhrami described the relationship between poetry and Yemeni identity in terms that apply to the war: the tradition continues even in displacement, even in refugee camps, even in the diaspora. Some of the most significant documentation of the war has come in poetic form.
Jambiya
The jambiya — a curved dagger worn at the front of the belt — is the defining symbol of male Yemeni identity in the northern highlands. The quality of the handle (rhinoceros horn was traditional and is now banned; animal horn, wood, and plastic substitutes are used) indicates social status. It is worn at all formal occasions and is a significant economic item. The silversmithing traditions around the jambiya, produced primarily by Yemen's Jewish craftsmen before the community's emigration to Israel, were among the finest in Arabia.
Yemeni Food
Yemeni cuisine is one of the great underrecognized food cultures of the Arab world. Unlike the Gulf states' more recently developed culinary traditions, Yemeni food has centuries of specificity — particular dishes tied to particular regions, particular spice combinations, particular cooking vessels. It is a cuisine that has traveled widely with the Yemeni diaspora and can now be found in Yemeni restaurants in London, Detroit, New York, Djibouti, and Kuala Lumpur — cities where significant Yemeni communities settled during the oil-boom migration years of the 1970s and 1980s.
Saltah
The national dish of Yemen. A meat stew (lamb or chicken) served in a stone bowl, topped with a fenugreek foam called hulba and a layer of sahawiq (a spiced tomato and chili paste), eaten with flatbread and a raw onion on the side. The fenugreek foam, bitter and pungent, is the defining element — nothing else in regional cuisine is quite like it. Saltah is a lunch dish, filling and specific, and represents what Yemeni food is at its most characteristic: not subtle, not refined, emphatically itself.
Bint al-Sahn
Literally "daughter of the plate": a multi-layered pastry made from thin sheets of dough, baked in clarified butter, soaked in honey at the table, and eaten warm. The best Yemeni honey — sidr honey from trees in the Hadhramaut and Wadi Dawan — is among the most prized honey in the Arab world and commands extraordinary prices. Bint al-sahn with sidr honey is the dessert that every traveler who visited pre-war Yemen mentions. It is still made in diaspora communities and in what remains of functioning Yemen.
Mandi & Fahsa
Mandi — lamb or chicken slow-cooked in a sealed underground oven with rice and spices — originated in the Hadhramaut valley and spread across the Gulf with Hadhramati migration. It is now eaten across the Arabian Peninsula, often in Yemeni-owned restaurants. Fahsa is a Sana'ani specialty: lamb cooked with fenugreek until it falls apart, served in a clay dish that stays hot at the table. Both are eating-with-your-hands, communal-plate dishes.
Lahoh & Breads
Lahoh is a spongy, slightly sour fermented pancake bread, similar in texture to Ethiopian injera, eaten for breakfast with honey and cream or as an accompaniment to stews. It is particular to Yemen and reflects the country's ancient connections across the Bab el-Mandeb Strait to the Horn of Africa. Khubz tawa (flatbread cooked on a griddle), khubz sa'a (tandoor-baked), and malawah (a flaky layered bread similar to paratha) complete the bread repertoire that is present at every Yemeni meal.
Coffee & Qishr
The motherland of coffee drinks it differently from everyone else. Qishr — made by steeping coffee husks (not beans) with ginger — is the home morning drink, amber-colored and warmly spiced. Coffee beans (bun) are roasted and ground with cardamom and brewed in a style that influenced the Ethiopian coffee ceremony and the Turkish coffee tradition. Drinking coffee in Yemen in a specific chaykhana, with the smell of incense from a mabkhara (incense burner) — this is one of those sensory experiences that travelers who knew the pre-war country describe with something approaching grief.
Yemeni Honey
Sidr honey, produced by bees foraging on the sidr (jujube) tree in the Hadhramaut and Marib regions, is among the most expensive and prized honeys in the world. A kilogram of premium sidr honey sells for $150-300 in Gulf markets. The honey trade is one of the few Yemeni economic activities that has continued during the war — production regions have been contested but beekeeping has persisted. Yemeni honey can be purchased from diaspora importers in London, New York, and Dubai for those who want a tangible connection to what the country produces.
When Peace Comes
This section exists because peace will come eventually, and Yemen will need tourism when it does. The country has assets — Sana'a's old city, Socotra, Shibam, the Hadhramaut valley, the mountain villages, the ancient Sabaean sites, the extraordinary food culture, and some of the most hospitable people in the world — that place it among the genuinely great travel destinations of the Arab world. Pre-war, Yemen was receiving around 1 million tourists annually. That baseline will take years to rebuild. But the rebuilding is worth planning for.
What will require attention when tourism resumes: landmine clearance across formerly contested areas; infrastructure repair (roads, airports, hotels, power); security sector reform; heritage restoration particularly of the Sana'a old city and Shibam; and the re-establishment of a tourism sector that, when it last functioned, was overwhelmingly dependent on local family-run guesthouses and small operators who will need support to restart.
Sana'a
The old city, the Great Mosque, the Bab al-Yemen gate, the suq. The tower houses rising from the old city fabric — alabaster fanlights, geometric brick patterns, the colored glass of the qamariyya windows catching the afternoon light. The qat market at noon, which functions as a kind of stock exchange for everything happening in Yemeni social life. The view from above the old city at dusk, all those towers against a sky that at altitude is a specific shade of deep blue.
Haraz Mountains
West of Sana'a, altitude 2,000-3,000 meters. The village of Al-Hajjarah perched on a cliff. Coffee farms on terraced hillsides, the same terraces that have been producing coffee since the 15th century. Manakhah, the main market town, with views down to the Tihama coastal plain and across to the Red Sea horizon on a clear day. A night in a mountain guesthouse run by a family who has operated there for generations.
Ma'rib & Ancient Saba
The ruins of the Sabaean kingdom: the Temple of Awwam, the Great Dam, the old city walls. In the 1st century CE this was a city of 20,000 people at the center of the ancient world's most important trade routes. The desert setting — the edge of the Rub' al-Khali (Empty Quarter) begins east of Ma'rib — gives the ruins a scale that more visited ancient sites don't have.
Hadhramaut Valley
Fly or drive to Seiyun. The white plaster palace of the Kathiri Sultans against the brown canyon walls. Shibam's skyscrapers from the approach road — the mud-brick towers emerging from the valley floor, improbably tall, improbably intact. The quiet of the valley in the late afternoon when the shadows lengthen and the canyon walls turn orange. A night in a traditional Hadhramaut house with a family who will feed you until you can't.
Socotra
Fly from Aden or eventually from Sana'a. The Diksam plateau dragon blood forests at sunrise. Qalansiya lagoon where the turquoise water runs between sand dunes and limestone. Swimming in the sea that no one else knows about. The Socotri-speaking villages of the interior, the frankincense and myrrh resin being tapped, the endemic plants that grew here long before the first human arrived.
Heritage Organizations
ALIPH, the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, the UNESCO Emergency Safeguarding program, and ASOR all work on Yemen heritage documentation and protection. Support them now so there is something to visit later.
Socotra Conservation
The Socotra Conservation and Development Programme works to protect the island's extraordinary endemic biodiversity. Tourism to Socotra, when it resumes at scale, will need to be managed to avoid damaging what makes the island unique.
Support Yemeni Coffee Now
Yemeni specialty coffee is available now through importers like Yemen Mocha, Port of Mokha, and several specialty roasters who source directly from Yemeni farmers. Buying it supports farming families and keeps agricultural traditions alive through the conflict.
Humanitarian Support
UNICEF Yemen, WFP Yemen, MSF Yemen, and CARE International all work on Yemen's humanitarian crisis. The country has had 10 million people on the verge of famine. Supporting this work is more urgent than planning a future trip.
Safety Assessment
This section is brief because the honest assessment is simple: mainland Yemen is not safe for tourists and attempting to visit as a tourist creates risk for yourself and for Yemenis obligated to help you. The following is for context, not as a framework for "managed risk" tourism.
Active Armed Conflict
Multiple armed factions control different territories. Front lines shift. Air strikes by the Saudi-led coalition have occurred with limited warning. Ground combat, artillery, and small arms fire are ongoing in contested areas. The scale of the conflict has produced one of the worst humanitarian situations in the world.
Kidnapping
Foreign nationals have been kidnapped, including humanitarian workers. AQAP (al-Qaeda in the Arabian Peninsula) and various armed groups have taken foreigners hostage. The tribal protection system that historically made Yemen remarkably safe for travelers has been severely disrupted by the war.
Landmines & UXO
Widespread landmine and unexploded ordnance contamination, particularly in the former front-line areas of Taiz, Sa'da, Hodeidah, and Marib governorates. The scale of contamination has not been fully mapped. This hazard will remain for years after any peace agreement.
Collapsed Infrastructure
Health facilities have been destroyed or severely degraded. The water and sanitation system in many cities has collapsed, contributing to the world's largest cholera outbreak in modern history. Power is intermittent or nonexistent in most areas. Medical evacuation for any emergency would be extremely difficult.
Socotra — Conditional
Socotra's security situation is distinct from the mainland but not simple. Military presence, contested governance, and intermittent access require current-specific verification. Do not treat previous access as an indicator of current access.
Diaspora & Cross-Border Research
Academic and journalistic research on Yemen can be conducted through Yemen's large diaspora community without traveling to the country. Remote interviewing, working with local researchers through secure digital platforms, and analysis of open-source data are all viable approaches that the conflict has made standard practice in Yemen studies.
Emergency Contacts
The following contacts are relevant for humanitarian workers, journalists, and others with institutional reasons to be in Yemen. They are not a framework for tourist travel.
Embassies — Most Have Suspended Yemen Operations
The majority of foreign embassies suspended Yemen operations in 2015 and have not reopened. Contact your nearest embassy to the country in a neighboring state for consular assistance.
What Endures
Tim Mackintosh-Smith, who lived in Sana'a's old city for decades and wrote one of the finest books about Yemen in any language, described the country before the war as "a palimpsest of time" — layer upon layer of civilization written on top of each other, visible simultaneously in a way that newer countries can't replicate. The Sabaean inscription and the Ottoman lintel and the British-era padlock on the same building. The ancient irrigation channel running beside a mobile phone shop. The poet reciting in a language descended from the people who built the Temple of Awwam.
In Arabic, the word for hospitality — karam — derives from the word for generosity and also from the word for nobility. The two meanings are inseparable in the tradition: to be generous with a guest is an expression of who you are, not just what you do. Yemen has been fighting for its survival for a decade. The karam has survived. When the fighting ends, it will still be there, in the same tower houses, over the same coffee, with the same insistence that you eat more than you thought you could.